Getting Around Prague

Getting around; arrival, orientation, taxis:

Arrival:

Unless you’re arriving by train (main station Hlavní nádraží is on the red C Metro line) or car, international flights arrive at Prague’s Letiště Ruzyně International Airport (PRG) located toward the outskirts of the city. A taxi to downtown Prague will cost about CZK600 and take about 40 minutes, but this depends on the time of day or night. Alternatively, you can take a 20-minute ride on the 119 bus for CZK26 (purchase tickets at the bus stop right outside the terminal), which will take you to the Dejvická Metro stop, the end of the green A Metro line. However, taking a taxi might make more sense if you have lots of heavy luggage and a jetlagged family in tow.

Orientation:

For the first few weeks or couple of months, it will be useful to carry around a street map. In most areas of Prague, you’ll find yourself in a charming maze of little back alleys and tiny cobblestone lanes. Even if you don’t have a map, getting lost is not such a problem, as you’re bound to encounter some tram or Metro stop eventually. The pleasant Vltava River runs through the city, and a walk along part of its length, starting from Čechův Most tram stop in Prague 1, is a great way to orient yourself with some of Prague 1′s central landmarks.

On your right, up the hill, is a beautiful park, Letenské Sady (straddling the border of Prague 6 and Prague 7) with one of the best panoramic views (and the best beer garden) in the city. Keep walking and you’ll get to the bustling Malostranská Metro and tram stop, at the foot of Prague Castle. Cross the bridge here, and you’ll find the gorgeous Rudolfinum concert hall, home to the Czech Philharmonic Orchestra, and just past it, the Arts and Philosophy faculty of Charles University (founded in 1348, it’s central Europe’s oldest). Keep moving along the river and you’ll come to the world-renowned Charles Bridge (leading toward Kampa Park), across from which is the grand Klementinum building, housing the National Library. Keep moving along the river, and you’ll find yourself at yet another bridge, which leads to tram stop Ujezd and the bottom of Petřín Hill. To your left is the grandiose and historic Národní Divadlo (national theatre). Walk on further to the next bridge, and on your left you’ll pass by the famous dancing building.

Prague’s street names are mostly marked by highly visible red placards with the name in white. The house number will often be in blue as well, but you might also see a number that seems unusually high to be an address. This is the building number, so be careful not to confuse the two when you’re looking for an address.

In the city centre, there are clusters of brown signs pointing you in the directions of major landmarks and Metro stops. The city has a very uncomplicated and easy to use Metro consisting of only three lines. There are also trams and buses that allow you to connect to anywhere in the city. The Metro, trams and buses stop running about 15 to 20 minutes after midnight, but there are night trams and night buses, following slightly different routes than in the daytime, which run until the regular day schedule begins at about 5am. The City of Prague’s transport authority has an excellent website, in Czech, English and German, where you can find comprehensive information and helpful maps to plan your route. Most importantly, there is a route planner where you can enter in your start and end point and estimated date and time of departure, and the site will come up with all the possible combinations of routes at that time and beyond, including cost, distance in kilometres, stops along the way, etc. You can find the site here: http://jizdnirady.idnes.cz/praha/spojeni .

As in any major city, there is rush hour traffic and public transport and roads become much more crowded from about 6.30am to 8am, and then again from 4pm to about 5.30pm. Czechs tend to go to work earlier in order to leave work earlier – this will make more sense to you in the winter time, when darkness sets in by barely 4pm.

Taxis:

Taxis are not really necessary in a city with such excellent and inexpensive public transport. As Prague’s roadways are currently struggling to handle the constantly growing capacity of vehicles, going by car, especially in rush hour, can take over an hour longer than going by tram or Metro. However, if you need to get somewhere efficiently and haven’t yet figured out the transport system, you can always flag down a taxi on busier streets or order one by phone, SMS or even online. Many taxi drivers will not speak English, or may pretend not to understand your address, even though most taxis are now equipped with GPS systems. Ideally, it’s always best to order a taxi ahead of time to prevent yourself from being overcharged. Two of the most reliable and trusted taxi companies are AAA Taxi and Profi Taxi. When you arrive at your destination, you can request a receipt if you need it. It’s acceptable to tip the driver. Payment is by cash only, and if you haven’t ordered your taxi ahead of time, always agree to a price before you get into the taxi.

Getting around; Metro, trams, buses:

Prague’s citizens might not be the smiley type, but they’re very considerate. If you’re moving around the city with a stroller, take comfort in the fact that you’ll definitely be assisted by other passengers in lifting your stroller onto and off every tram, bus, escalator and staircase that you encounter.

Metro:

It’s been mentioned already, but the Metro is certainly the fastest and most efficient way to get around in Prague – not to mention uncomplicated, with only three lines, A (green), B (yellow) and C (red). Trains are always on time, with a wait of 2-3 minutes on weekdays until about 8pm, after which wait time is around 6-9 minutes, as it also is during the weekend. The last train is at around 1am. Trains are very clean and quiet, and you’ll rarely encounter any jostling or pushing, even during rush hour. Prague’s citizens are patient and orderly, and exiting passengers are allowed to leave first before anyone enters the train. However, pickpocketing can easily occur on a crowded train, especially if you stand out as a foreigner. Be sure to keep an eye on your belongings and your pockets, and try to keep your voice down when speaking.

Tickets can be purchased from the machines (directions are in Czech and English) inside any Metro station, and cost CZK18 (CZK9 for children 6-15 years old) for 20 minutes or 5 stops without transfers, or CZK26 (CZK13 for children 6-15 years old) for 75 minutes. Children under 6 ride free. You can also purchase tickets from the ticket office by the escalators, and most ticket sellers speak basic English. Make sure you validate your ticket before you get onto the escalator that takes you down to the platform, as there are plenty of ticket controllers around who can stop you at any time on the platform or on the train itself and ask to see your validated ticket or transport pass. Anyone caught without a ticket must pay a fine of CZK950. Controllers may be in uniform, with a dark blue jacket, or in plain clothes. But before you show your ticket, make sure the controller properly identifies himself with the gold and red badge. If you plan to use the public transport often (Metro, tram or bus), it’s best to buy a transport pass. The longer the validity of the pass, the better value. You can choose from a monthly, quarterly or yearly pass. These passes can be obtained only at the ticket offices of certain Metro stops (including Dejvicka) by presenting your passport and a Czech-size passport photo.

Trams:

Trams in Prague are not only fast and reliable, but also a fun way to see the city – as long as you can get a seat, that is. Just pick a tram line (9, 18 and 20 are good ones), and ride it to the end. The tram routes and lines do tend to change often and unexpectedly, due to construction, public holidays or city-wide events, so make sure to check your tram connection on the public transport website (http://jizdnirady.idnes.cz/praha/spojeni ) before going out the door. Tram schedules are clearly marked at each tram stop, and waiting time is shorter on weekdays (3-10 minutes) than on weekends. As on buses, validate your ticket upon entering the tram, before you sit down. Trams can get quite crowded, so be sure to keep your bags to yourself and watch your pockets. Night trams, also known as drunk trams, start at 1am and are often watched over by a couple of police officers at the back of the tram. These trams are usually full of young people going home after a night out or on to another pub or party.

Buses:

Bus stops, like tram stops, are all around, and also usually found right outside Metro stops, allowing you to continue your journey into less connected parts of Prague. Buses are also mostly on time, but can be crowded and uncomfortable during rush hour. Tickets must be validated immediately upon entering the bus, before you sit down. As on the Metro or tram, you’re expected to give up your seat to the handicapped, elderly and pregnant women, or women with young children. Clearly defined bus schedules are usually posted at each stop, in Czech, so all you need to know is the name of your stop and the direction in which you’re travelling. You can always mention the name of your stop to the bus driver if you’re unsure. If you’re in a hurry, it’s better to take a taxi, although buses do tend to have dedicated bus lanes on busier roads. Day buses come every 10 to 20 minutes, while night buses, like night trams, come every 30-60 minutes, and may have slightly altered routes.

Getting around; walking, driving:

Walking:

One of the most wonderful aspects of Prague is how pedestrian-friendly the city is. As long as you cross the streets when the little green man tells you to, and you cross at the zebra crossing, you’ll be just fine, since pedestrians have the right of way in traffic. But if you cross somewhere without zebra stripes, especially in a more touristy area, don’t be surprised if a police officer chases after you and writes you a ticket for jaywalking. Of course, as usual, the Czech police tend to go after the obvious foreigners, so try not to wear a backpack if you can help it.

Prague is famous for its cobblestone streets and sidewalks, so wear comfortable shoes if you plan to do a lot of walking, as the cobblestones have been known to bite off the heels of women’s shoes. Sidewalks are extremely well maintained, and the city provides brown paper bags on street corners for picking up after your dog – Czechs are a dog-loving people, and dogs are everywhere to be seen. However, be cautious and avoid walking directly atop sewer caps and metal grates just in case. In winter, be extra careful and watch for falling icicles from balconies and tall buildings, and for icy patches on the sidewalks. Prague’s hilly topography calls for staircases here and there across the city, so if you have knee or leg problems, you’re better off taking a car or public transport instead of walking.

Driving:

Driving in Prague is not terribly difficult, as drivers are pretty easygoing; however, you do have to give way to and watch out for trams, buses and pedestrians, as well as be aware that there are plenty of tiny one-way streets. EU citizens with a valid driver’s licence from any EU country are legally permitted to drive in the Czech Republic. If you’re a non-EU citizen, however, and have a long-term visa or a long-term residency permit, you will need to apply for a Czech driver’s licence. This generally involves taking a month-long course and passing the written, oral and driving test. You’ll need to show your medical certificate and visa to apply. Foreigners are allowed to have a translator with them (there’s a fee of CZK1,000-2,000) during the written and oral parts of the test if it’s not in English. Czech road signs are ubiquitous and cover many different situations, most of which you will likely find yourself in, so always obey the signs. Using a mobile phone while driving is not allowed, so you must have a hands-free phone set. Czech law also requires that the front passenger be at least 12 years old, and that any younger children must be seated and belted in a special plastic booster seat.